Going back to family

After a series of unfortunate travel events trying to get back to the States, I am finally back to give my last debrief of my travels to Brazil…

As I spend Sunday as my last day in Brazil, it is only appropriate that it is our “free” day.  I now get an opportunity to view a bit more of leisure life in Bahia.  The plan was to visit the Museu do Rodin.  Also a part of this plan was to walk…extensively (I’m not sure some of colleagues knew about the “extensive” part).

First things first:  the streets of Salvador are not conducive to strollers, so if vacationing with babies consider the baby harness (check Babies R Us or your baby gear outlet of choice).  As we walked along the coastline of the Barra (BAH-ha) neighborhood, families filled the beach and the streets.  There were also running groups and other groups of people living an “active” Sunday.

There is a portion of Avenida Oceanica, between the lighthouse and the fort that is closed off to through traffic for trampolines, children’s bike lanes and family dance classes to be put in the street for family entertainment.  This definitely caters to the middle class life of Brazil, so do not expect to see much diversity among the group when it comes to Brazilians.

There are a few things that I have learned on this trip that I did not expect to learn:

1) Afro-Brazilians are appreciated by culture only.  There are many Brazilians who tout the democratic horn of cultural and traditional appreciation, yet the people of whom these cultures and traditions belong have a difficult time rising up the socioeconomic ladder in the country.  This is not to say that ALL Afro-Brazilians are poor, however, it IS to say that if Afro-Brazilians make up 76% of the state of Bahia’s population and 95% of it’s poor,….well you draw your own conclusion.

2) Despite some of the grim and grimy aspects of the country, it is a place you MUST visit.  See it for yourself, experience it, and take it all in.   If traveling with family, I recommend you stay in the Barra neighborhood.  It is safe for family to travel and you can get taxis relatively quickly and easily to visit Pelourinho and other parts of town.

3) If you are of African descent, living in America, by all means, LEARN PORTUGUESE.  I liken this advice to what we tend to say here among certain circles, “if you model it, eventually, somebody will repeat it.”  I say this because I, in my humblest of opinions, believe that if we as African Americans take the time and the effort to adapt culturally to as much as we can about Brazil and then go visit, we will in essence be modeling the Black intellectual for the Afro-Brazilians (a 2006 statistic states that Afro-Brazilians make up 2% of the intellectuals at the universities partly due to the blight that is the public education system there).  I am convinced in a Washington/Duboisian mixed model, it can do some good in motivation.  I’m sure I may catch a bit a flack for this statement, but I ask you to think about your role models or people you admire, what did you do in your life because of just seeing them live theirs?

I leave Brazil with a desire to return…with my family.  I need my children to experience what I experienced and I want my family to see what I saw.  I cannot say we will definitely be there for the World Cup 2014 (some airports need a bit of work to handle that traffic still), but we can always make it a goal.

Back the US reality, but I do have a lot of writing to begin!

Ciaociao!

 

To the margins…in order to push it center

Syncretism and the Brazilian Way

So in a teachable moment, it is important to note, that the Internet is not always reliable in Salvador.  Here’s hoping my notes and my  memory can merge yesterday and today into one blog post.

The idea of syncretism has been discussed a lot by the lecturers in this program over the past few days.  But what exactly is it and how can the average person understand it?  I hope to use some cultural information about Salavdor and Bahia in order to help to provide some insight into syncretism, the layers upon layers of culture and traditions that make up what is Afro-Brazilian and in essence, Brazilian.

One of our guides told us it is custom to keep the colonial face of buildings and renovate everything behind it.  This would be part one of syncretism, the Portguese culture.  Why is it first when it is the least ethnically prominent in the rgion (Afro-Bahians make up 85% of the population).  Because it was with the Portuguese that society and social mores were founded, therefore it is the foundation upon which the other layers are placed.

In Cachoeira (ka-SHWEAR-ah), there is a sisterhood of “more seasoned” (the youngest is a vivacious 55) Afro-Bahian women who use the principles of Catholicism to serve the community in particular ways.  They also have a Celebration of Boa Morte (good death) every August.  The Public Relations person for the Sisterhood told us that the majority of the participants are African Americans who travel to Bahia to celebrate with the women.  However the Sisterhood did not start off as an Afro-Bahian organization.  It began as a Portuguese women’s sisterhood and the older slave women requested to be a part as a way of devoting to God.  The Portuguese women allowed it and tasked them to collect the alms to pay for the annual celebration.  There were 200 slave women who were a part of the Sisterhood collecting alms around Bahia.  When they finished, they kept a portion in order to buy the freedom of one of the slave women.

Over time, more slave women joined and it soon became known as a way to gain your freedom.  After a number of years in the Sisterhood, the slave women were granted freedom and it continued until slavery was abolished in 1888.  Now the Irmandade de Boa Morte is exclusively Afro-Bahian.  The oldest woman currently is 108 years old!  Part two of syncretism: The implementation of African traditions adapted through slavery and placed on top of what is Portuguese to a point where over time it is difficult to distinuguish what is Portuguese and what is African but you know for sure, it is Brazilian.

Tonight we are going to a candomble celebrating the orixa (oh-REE-shah) Oxossi (oh-SHO-see), the hunter.  Candomble is an African-rooted religion that has infused elements of Catholicism (it just so happens this celebration falls on the national holiday, Feast of St. John…well not really, St. John is the Catholic equivalent to Oxossi).  Candomble is also syncretism.  Traditonally African, infused with Catholicism practiced by ANYONE, not just the Blacks.  Remember the UK-born, Puerto Rican raised White woman lecturer I mentioned in an earlier blog?  She was initiated in the house of Oxum in a terreiro (the equivalent to what US practitioners of Yoruba call an ile) in Salvador.  This in essence, makes her syncretism manifested.  Like it or not, agree with it or not, syncretism encompasses all things in Brazil.  The Brazilian way is how you adpat the Portuguese and the African to make up your life.  Which means the evidence of syncretism can look different from Brazilian to Brazilian.  How the white by appearance Brazilian incorporates syncretism will look very different from the Afro-Bahian selling the African based acaraje to her, incorporates syncretism.

One thing I do know, syncretism or not, this is going to be a long night…..lol

Boa noite!

What to do in Salvador

I realize, I’ve spent the past few days pontificating on what I’m learning, but this is a TRAVEL blog so here’s some useful information about seeing sights in Salvador.  I will admit, purchasing airfare will be pretty steep, but with proper planning, you can visit Salvador with your family and not break the bank.

Salvador da Bahia, Brazil

Here are some links to some inexpensive, family-friendly activities you can do in Salvador.  The list is not complete, as I am still here and know I won’t see everything, but these are definitely things that when I bring my family back, I’ll do again.

Bale Folclorico da Bahia

This troupe does daily evening performances at Teatro Miguel Santana in the Pelourinho Historic Center.  They specialize in Afro-Bahian dance.  Please take your family to see this troupe.

http://www.balefolcloricodabahia.com.br/

Pelourinho: Salvador’s Historic Center

This is the neighborhood where it all began in Salvador.  It’s the colonial area of the city. There are several churches you can tour for less than 3 reais (about 2 bucks) per person.  There is a Museum of Afro-Brazilian History in the old medical school.  This entrance fee will probably be the most expensive here (about 5 bucks per person).  Of course there are guides that will give you a tour, but you can easily explore the neighborhood as a family with a map.  Be mindful it is a touristy area so what comes with that (vendors, etc.) will be present.  However do not go on Sundays.  Pelourinho is pretty desolate on Sundays therefore ripe for crime.

http://gosouthamerica.about.com/cs/southamerica/a/BraPelourinho.htm

Lacerda Elevator

This is probably one of the coolest things your kids will like.  In 1849, a huge elevator was built to link Pelourinho to the Cidade Baixa (Lower City).  A family of four can take a one way ride on this elevator for the grand total of 25 cents.  On the lower city side, you will walk right into Mercado which will have souvenirs for you to peruse through.

http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/South_America/Brazil/Estado_da_Bahia/Salvador_da_Bahia-1503499/Things_To_Do-Salvador_da_Bahia-Lacerda_Elevator-BR-1.html